![]() ![]() Sand down where both plasters join in (old and new). (this is why you must PVA on either side of the chasing/channel, onto the old plaster)ġ0. Multifinish second coat, and go a bit further on the sides than the first coat. and press with a wet trowel feathering it in where it joins with the old plasterĨ. Multifinish first coat (wider than the channel itself), and take it to the old plaster too, wait unil tacky. Once firm, scape off level with the "old" plaster, and a bit more, so it sits just below.ħ. Same as point 3, if the gap is too deep.ĥ. Hardwall plaster and a bit of cement and fill the gapĤ. PVA the channel and around it (2 coats 1pva : 4 water) until tackyģ. So many answers and almost all of them suggest bonding, so I'd be no different here :)Ģ. Skimming is a part of the plastering process. In others words, plastering and skimming are not two separate terms. Skimming is one of the techniques a plasterer uses when plastering the wall. The term ‘plastering’ refers to the whole trade. I've recently had some plastering done in one over the rooms and the plasterer suggested using Thistle Bonding Coat that was left over. Though some people think plastering is the technique of applying plaster on the walls, it is not so. If it trips you have either got wet plaster on the wires or a wire may have come loose when you loosened the sockets, just turn supply back off and clean the wires and let them dry for a while or re attach wire. 1 Hi, whats the best for filling in the chase channel after a rewire Some people have mentioned patching plaster or One Coat plaster. When its dry you can tighten the switch back and put the electric back on. Then skim with multi finish and trowel it as it takes up (gets firmer) use a little water with either a brush or sponge until it sets. Wait until bonding is firm to the touch and scrape any excess on or surrounding the chase (the original wall should be clean to the edges of the chase) Try not to get any wet plaster on the wiring to socket as when you come to turn electric back on it will keep tripping the switch. You then need to dampen down the chase with water or water & PVA mixed, Use bonding plaster for your first coat and fill the chase proud then use the edge of your trowel and scrape the excess off so it is flush to the existing plaster or slightly behind existing coat. The process is a pain in the ass, but the end results are so worth it. I just spent the week skim coating the walls in my dining room (ended up doing 3 coats) and I have to say, it really makes a difference. You should then loosen the face of the socket or switch so you can trowel behind it. Some of them are kinda beat up and have a bit of a rough knockdown texture. If you touch the wires with the trowel it will be a shocking experience!!!!! Do it your self and then check the lights or socket doesn't work. Does this sound plausible?įast forward a month or so since Easifilling and I got round to repainting this fixed wall only to face the same issue again but in a different spot (that was previously painted ok).First and most important job is to isolate the electric supply to the chase whether it be lights or sockets. So I am a bit concerned that the corner where the pipes punch out through the external wall for future extension could be sagging and causing this problem. be i could just plaster over cable/conduit to hold it in and then just skim. The same plasterer filled in the chase by putting some wire in and filling it with Thistle Hardwall or perhaps just plaster. Hi all what is the best way to fill in the cable wall chase, i have been. I had this wall chased out from corner to corner and put the hot&cold and waste pipes for the future extension, so quite a deep chase for my non-builder mind. When doing so he noticed some cracks under the skim coat and suggested that there was some movemet in the wall which caused the cracks and skim to get unstuck (hence the hollow sound when tapped snd peeling off). The plasterer came back and cut around the peeled off sections and filled with Easifill. You could hear a hollow sound when tapped the area around the peeled off skim. Everything was going well except for one party wall where the skim started peeling off when rolling the paint on. I did the mist coat of 9:1 paint and water (as pwr instructions on the paint bucket) and then undiluted paint for the top coat. As advised by the plasterer, I have used Leyland Leytex breathable paint as we wanted to the walls to be white anyway. We had a living room walls and ceiling skimmed and I repainted it after it dried (after a good few weeks due to lack of time).
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